![]() |
| Image credit: Amazon |
I won’t say that my disappointment in this book was bitter,
but it was definitely tart; an anticipated reading experience made sour by the
byline not delivering what it offers. After the first 2-3 chapters, I felt a
little lied to as it became clear that these are not really essays but articles.
Admittedly, they are perfectly enjoyable and provocative articles that are
written with love for the subject matter, but without an introduction, body, references, and a conclusion that proposes an argument or point of view and then convinces
you of its validity, they are certainly not essays. And, as we all know, one
bad apple can rot the whole barrel – so this singular, misleading word in the byline
managed to completely change the flavour of my reading experience.
And once that initial shock has been absorbed, it’s then harder
to envelop yourself in the book because all you can do is pinpoint all the
other things about it that aren’t working. If this was described as, ‘a charcuterie
board of articles on life and the love of food’ then I probably would have had
a much more pleasant time. But even after wading through all 52 essays in 300 pages,
I am still stuck on the lack of essays and the fact that there is no real cohesion between
chapters – it honestly feels like these are all articles or chapters
from her other books that have been sliced up and tossed together in a salad
bowl without a dressing to tie it all together.
BUT, just because I felt that the byline was a liar, that
can’t be all that I write about. And Around the Table is a collection of
works that are written with a deep love and appreciation of the subject matter.
Henry takes us to Morocco, Italy, Russia, Greece, and New York through lovely
descriptions of flavours, aromas, and the visual joy produced by food. There is
a nice blend of history and autobiography within the pages, and I actually did
come away at the end of it a little more aware of my palette and how I could
improve my cooking through just understanding flavours. Not to mention that there are some occasional tasty tidbits of information that are fascinating: like the production of maple syrup. While there is not an
essay in sight, her book is still enlightening, and very easy to read through.
![]() |
| Image credit: Metro |
If anything, Around the Table is a book that proves that publishing is as much about trial and error as cooking: one poor choice of word of can drastically change the flavour of the reading experience. If we think of Henry’s work as a chicken dish, then the byline is an overzealous amount of lemon in the marinade. It doesn’t make the meal inedible but overpowers the other flavours and causes you to scrunch up your face.
Author: Diana Henry, 2025
Published: Published in Great Britain by Mitchell Beazley,
an imprint of Octopus Publishing Group Ltd, London, 2025













